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By day, Bodrum is a myriad of many things; tourists, restaurants, streetsellers, markets,
sun, sea, sand, excuse the pun , pebbles, and relaxation.
By night, all this is exaggerated 10-fold. However, with the setting of the sun comes
the moon and with the moon comes what Bodrum is famous throughout the world for - a very noisy and vibrant nightlife!
If you don’t experience the nights in Bodrum, there’s absolutely no way you can say you’ve been
One would think that after holidaying in Bodrum year after year that I would be
a little tired of it. On the contrary! Every year I go with the same excitement and at the end of my stay, long
for the quick arrival of next year.
At the moment I’m stuck for words because Bodrum offers so much, I don’t think it’s possible to do it any
justice. And why is it that I have visions of sleepy dogs who block doorways and tourists in thongs when I think
of Bodrum?!
I know that I must start with Halikarnas, an old epithet, but one that still rings true as the young and
old dance away inside the white stucco and palm trees of Halikarnas Disco perched on the edge of the bay.
Am I being unkind when I say that Halikarnas reminds me of the 70s? Everytime I go there, I feel like John
Travolta is going to jump out in his flares and do a »Saturday Night Fever«. He doesn’t. Instead,
the beautiful slim dancers take the floor and strut their stuff. This is not to say that Halikarnas is not
the place to be. In fact, as well as being the most famous, it’s also probably the most popular and drags big crowds
in night after night.
Now that that’s over and done with, let’s hit the streets. While walking along Dr. Alim Bey Caddesi, better
known as »bar street«, you’ll have a colorful time people watching. For example, you’ll come
across people trying to haggle silver, and others yelling out, »Name in rice, name in rice«,
and »Kahraman Maras” being the ice-cream which is chewed, not licked.
When I was in Bodrum last, I fell prey to the new temporary tattooing frenzy. Having always been curious
and a little excited by them, I stopped to have a chat with one of the many young men-come-artists on the street.
My first question was naturally, »How long will it last?« and »Can I choose my own
design?« I was told that as the ink was a form of henna, used traditionally in make-up, it would last
about 15 days and yes, I could choose my own design.
After having a look at the examples I was given, I chose what looked like barbed wire (very Pamela Anderson,
I look know). Then, in the middle of the street, I pulled my trouser pants up and let the master begin. In no more
than five minutes, I had a black tattoo around my ankle. I was very happy and couldn't wait to hit the beach the
next day to show it off!
Tattooing is just one of the many things you can find on the streets of Bodrum. Music is another. In fact,
there’s so much music that you’ll feel as if your ears are about to burst. And no wonder, when the street is lined
with pubs and clubs, it’s the perfect place for a pub crawl - I’m assuming this is the very reason why so many
English tourists come year after year; their most favorite sport alongside football being drinking beer.
The most popular bars/clubs are undoubtedly anywhere that serves alcohol - but here are my personal favorites:
M&M is probably the most favorite with the »trendy« set. After you’ve managed
to get past one of the many doormen, you’ll pay a cover charge which usually comes with one drink and walk into
what seems another world. It is very similar to Halikarnas in that it is an open-air nightclub with fantastic
laser shows and the latest music. In fact, M&M is well known for hosting performances by international djs.
If for some reason you can’t get by the doormen at M&M, go and join the boisterous fun at the Greenhouse
next door. Irish decor, international music, very loud and popular. If you don’t like crowds, avoid it.
To the right and slightly opposite of M&M and Greenhouse is Hadigari. This venue is relatively
small compared to the bars/clubs on the other side of the street. The crowd is quite bohemian and hip, while the
music is very contemporary and loud.
Next door to Hadigari is Yedigari. The crowd’s generally made up very young, mainly Turkish university
students who are out for a blasting good time. It's worth the cover charge if you’re into Turkish pop or if you
just want sit out on what resembles a balcony on the second floor which looks out onto the street.
While on »bar street«, check out Sokak Bar which is a combination of smoke and »Star
Wars«. The music is very upbeat. If you want some action but want to get away from the crowds, check
out the side streets where you’ll be sure to find somewhere to suit your style. For example, if you like jazz,
venture into Küba where it sways all night.
If salsa is your thing, you’ll be doing your Latin American inspired moves as soon as you walk through the
red door at Picante. While you there, taste the tapas and don’t forget the frozen margaritas and teqiula
shots!
Having tried to describe Bodrum’s nightlife, I feel I have not done it justice, and now I resign myself
to the fact that justice cannot be done. It is all about enthusiasm, energy and excitement, and the fact that people
are there to have a good time. If you don’t believe me, go and experience it for yourself - then you’ll know exactly
what I mean.
By Jenny
Taylor
(Note: the M&M club closed its doors beginning 2001)
read another article by M. Gürer  Sleepless
Nights
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Hadigari offers often 1st class Jazz programs
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 Spontanious Belly Dance in a typical meyhane
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